4 day Blitz

I am TIRED.

Scott took a couple days off work so we could hit the project list hard and I am wiped out. Really, too tired to even blog but I thought I could share a few pictures.

Gutted kitchen and removed existing tile. The only cabinets we left were the ones around the stove vent because we figured we'll just paint around those instead of disconnecting the vent. Someday the kitchen will be completely remodeled, but for now it is getting just a minor face lift with new flooring, paint, and clean up.

Installing the entry tile. It was purchased from Lowe's and is a high definition printed porcelain. It has a border of small square tiles that runs around all sides except the stairs.

Moved the bed and bookshelves into our youngest daughter's room. Still need to buy curtains, blinds, bedding, etc. for her. We also put together bookshelves for the other daughter's room and both girls spent time this weekend trying to put away the stuff they packed up months ago when we listed our house.

We painted 3 closests (pantry, linen, and master bedroom) and installed hardware in the pantry and master bedroom closets. I want to pick up a couple more baskets and we'll add some sort of shoe storage on the wall you can't see on the right. I will start loading these up once the flooring is done.

The hardwood in the living room! I love it!!! It is a Rapid Loc Vintage Hickory. Sort of an engineered hardwood (hardwood top over substrate). It has a lot of character and the color is perfect. This entire room is done now. Next come the hall and the kitchen.

Almost as if to welcome us into the new home- the first flower of spring arrived yesterday. I think yellow crocus must mean happiness and luck live here. I'm sure of it. :)

Staircase wood finishing

This post should really be called, "how I gained ugly hands," on account of the nail biting, hand wringing, slivers and stains.

I used to love re-finishing furniture. I loved starting with something ugly and turning it into something I considered pretty. A couple of decades and having KIDS have kind of screwed with my patience, though, and now I just want to buy it and have it be done. Man do I wish I had the budget to do that on this house some days.

My inspiration for the stairs came from my fabulous friend Kris' home in Dallas. While I was visiting Kris last summer I took pictures of her staircase from every angle because it was exactly what I wanted. Having no experience with stairs before, I thought we could benefit from having a good example to follow. What I liked about Kris' staircase: it had stained wood newels and handrail and painted white balusters (the small spindles). Instead of being a long angled run, each step was cut back individually. The steps were carpeted, but the balusters were mounted on a painted wood edge that was trimmed out beautifully. To me, it looks casual but refined and I thought it would be a perfect fit for our cape cod.

I knew that I wanted box newels and something other than oak. We shopped around all over (and online) but settled on Menards because they had the best selection in stock. We showed the newell posts to the girls and asked them which they liked, and I'll admit I was doing this more to make them feel a part of the process than actually intending to take their opinions into account. I knew what I wanted. But when my nine-year-old said she thought the turned posts were better because they matched the posts on the porch I paused and thought about that.

Pretty good observation. One thing I have had in the back of my mind is that I need to stay consistent with the cape cod architecture of the home. Maybe square newells are a little more craftsman? Add to that the fact that to get anything other than oak in a square newel would have required ordering and I started to warm up to the idea of turned posts.

I had a choice of Oak, Hemlock, or Pine if I wanted stock materials. I chose Hemlock because the price was right, it wasn't oak (don't have anything against oak, I've just had oak cabinets way to long and want a change), and it was clearer than the pine. Next stop, finishing products.

I was looking for a stain that would be close to the Vintage Hickory flooring we'd already bought. There was no hickory stain, and everything seemed to be too yellow or orange. There was a rosewood that might have worked, but I was afraid that it would turn the hemlock pink. The more I thought about it, the more I realized I'd never worked with hemlock before, maybe I should google it. And that is how I bit down the first couple nails, in the stain aisle, scrolling through web page after web page of horror stories about staining hemlock.

I didn't know what to do. Put it all back? Go home and research more? Dive in and try a pre-stain conditioner? Ugh. I was in over my head. I did decide to take a chance on a black walnut danish oil, only because it seemed to be the closest finish to the flooring.

I had bought a small turned spindle to use as my sample piece, but even before attempting that I put a little bit of the danish oil on a piece of the handrail fillet since it could be flipped over and no harm done. 

My heart sunk. It was so blotchy it looked like a spotted leopard. Back to my friend google. By this time all fingernails were gone and the hand wringing had fully commenced. 

 Meanwhile, back at the ranch, my pile of wood wasn't going anywhere. I put this picture on Instagram- #fromwhereIstand - that's a lot of wood to finish.

My surfing struck a speck of gold when I read a few recommendations for a pre-color treatment by Charles Neil Woodworking. It seemed to be a home brew recipe that some pretty experienced woodworkers were raving about so I watched the you tube video, was still quite skeptical, but decided I didn't discover any better options so I'd take a chance. It required two coats with a light sanding after each coat. I didn't actually sand it, I used the scrubby side of a kitchen scrub sponge and it seemed to work really well.

This picture shows how the wood handrails took the stain after 2 coats of the blotch control in comparison to my sample piece (on top of the second handrail). So much better! My hands probably would have started recovering if it weren't for the splinters. Good lord the bottoms on those handrails tore me up, three really deep slivers claimed a whack load of skin from my left hand.

This picture shows the difference between the natural wood and the wood treated with the danish oil. I will say, danish oil is very easy to work with. Wipes or brushes on, wipes off easy, and really enhances the grain and once the blotch control had been used, was very uniform in color.

The bigger test was on turned wood, because I knew the grain would take the color a little different than on the straight handrails. I also wanted to compare the color with the flooring. 

Ta da! This is my sample turning and the back side of the original blotchy fillet laid on top of a couple pieces of flooring. Once the stained wood has a finish coat I think it will look really nice.

Today I finished the newell posts and they turned out pretty good. The color isn't quite as uniform as the handrails, but I suspected that. I was very happy I'd put a third coat of blotch control on the tops and on the rough edges of the turned areas, but I think now a third coat over the whole thing might have been a good idea. This hemlock seems to be very thirsty. I actually used all the blotch control I ordered, however, and I was too impatient to order another container. I think it looks fine, but it could have been nearly perfect.

Only 45 spindles to stain... and 2-3 coats of clear semi-gloss to finish. This is not a weekend project.

Speaking of gloss, I ran into an issue when it came time to decide on a product to finish this wood. I could build up layers of danish oil, but I don't want the wood to be that dark. I like this color and want to put a clear coat on it as it is. I have never had luck with most mainstream varnishes or polys (hate Minwax, hate it!). My go-to product in the past was Carver Tripp's Safe and Simple Poly. It was a milky watery liquid that went on light but in 3 coats gave a beautiful, durable finish. Easy clean up, little odor. Can't say enough positive stuff about it. Unfortunately, it is no longer available as Carver Tripp is no more. 

Just when my nails were starting to recover, it was time for another nail-biting google session. I settled on Vermont Natural Coatings Poly-whey natural furniture finish in semi-gloss. It arrived today, so I'll update once I've had a chance to use it. 

Top all this staining action off with a sinus infection and pink eye and you have my lovely existence right now. Thank heaven for z paks, eye drops, and paraffin manicures!

Renovation ADD

We are scattered all over the place right now! Hard to give you a concise post instead of the blah blah ramble but since we really have so much going on all over the place I don't know how to do that. So here's just a brief update:

Studio is painted, wall cabinets hung. Can't do any more until the demo is done on the master bath because we are going to steal space from the Studio's huge closet for the shower in the master bath. It has now become my wood staining/finishing spot since it is the most dust-free room on the main floor.

Master bedroom is painted, all the crown molding is installed but still needs to be caulked and a finish coat of white semi-gloss over that. Looks really good! It is now a storage space until we're ready to do the flooring.

The flooring has been purchased and we got it for a steal. Had to travel to two different stores to get enough since it was a closeout for $2/sf, but it is a very pretty engineered hardwood in Vintage Hickory. I was looking at flooring that would be darker, more gray, but this has the main criteria (NO yellow or orange) and the price couldn't be beat.

Demolition on the master bath has begun! Yippee! This deserves it's own post however the quick version is the tub is outta there. Oh how I love the sound of smashing ceramic tiles...

The staircase woodwork has been purchased and as you can tell from the top picture, I'm in the process of staining and finishing it now.

We have a good start on the board and batten wall treatment going up the stairs. The kids even got in the action to help paint the wall.

The thing about child labor though...

Sometimes they color outside the lines.

Isn't it starting to shape up nice?

The rest of the hallway downstairs is painted.

The basement has been painted with a waterproofing paint. We haven't had any problems in recent years, but right after the house was built there were a couple times that water came into the basement. We are certain it is from the road runoff at the top of the hill behind the house, and it isn't likely to happen again since Scott created a dam to divert the flow from the culvert. He has hauled all our leaves and grass clippings into the woods to create a berm which has been really effective. Can't be too cautious, though, since we are going to finish off the basement to be our main tv area and entertaining space. It is just a dull boring gray color, no pics there.

We've drawn up the kitchen and are still stumped on a way to make it better. We do need to have a plan before we get too involved on the basement remodel, though, so we can plan for moving water lines, gas, power, etc. The time to do that is before we install a ceiling in the basement.

We're also playing around with layouts for the basement itself. We need to pack a lot into the space. Even though it is a big area, there are lots of odd things in the way here or there and it makes it hard to fit in a tv area, game area, wet bar, bathroom, possible bedroom and utility room. What I do know is that I want it to have a music theme, kind of a refined rock sensibility. So I'm looking at some non-traditional ideas for finishing the space.

All these projects make our focus pretty scattered. We need to finish the wood stair parts to complete the staircase but we need the flooring up to finish the stair parts. To pull up the old flooring we need to gut the kitchen and there is no place to store everything there until the utility room in the basement has been framed and drywalled. Do you see how this can make for a lot of mental fatigue? Half the time it feels like we are following a rabbit trail only to have to back track and follow another.

I'd hoped to be moved in by spring break, but I don't know... that might be asking a lot for a couple middle-aged weekend warriors who are still trying to balance family life with school-aged kids. Can we do it? Stay tuned to find out!

Staircase part 4- puzzling it together

Finally! Time to start building something pretty!

We decided we wanted to have each step treated individually instead of a long angled run. That might only make sense if you've been looking at stairs- trust me, I've been looking at a LOT of stairs. Most of the staircase drew inspiration from my friend Kris' home in Texas. I love her house and she probably thought I was nuts taking pictures of trim and flooring and stairs on my last visit. But hey, I am not above copying a look that I like (more on how I copied Kris later).

Each stair required a notched board that would cover the 2x4's. We chose MDF for this because it is smooth, priced right, and takes paint well. After cutting each of the boards, my husband routed the edges to give it a more polished appearance. Then I got the pieces over on the paint bench for 3 coats of semi-gloss. They will get a final coat or two once everything is installed to cover nails and and caulking we need to do, but having them painted first will make finishing them much easier.

This is a better shot of the edges. As you can tell, this was before I painted them.

After I'd painted the wall to match the upper walls in the stairway (Glidden's Mature Spanish Chestnut), Scott nailed the boards into place. Then he cut and routed the pieces that cover the verticle sections of the staircase, and those got the semigloss spa treatment.

Of course, to finish this off, each step requires a decorative trim as well. Yes, that power miter box is getting quite the workout with this project.

Isn't it pretty? Of course, the nail holes need to be filled and the final painting done, but the stairs are basically ready for the balusters, newel posts, and hand rail.

Oh, and the front door has not been painted. I know it is almost the same color of the stairs, but actually the door was that color from the factory 9 years ago. I had planned to paint it a dark peacock blue, but now I'm not sure, maybe it should match the stairs. Input? What do you think- play it safe and serene with the beige or liven it up with peacock blue?

My beeyoootiful new bedroom light

As promised, this project deserved it's own post. One of the few things I didn't love about the master bedroom is the light. It was ok, kind of generic, white base with alabaster glass. It didn't put out enough light for the room, though, so right off the bat I knew I wanted something a little fancier and something that cast more light.


Having taken the time to make the ceiling fancy with the molding and two colors of paint, I knew I wanted something that would feel upscale but not too formal. I love the crystal chandelier trend, but didn't want something that looked overly girly. The wall colors are Natural Linen and Simple Silhouette, a pale beige and deep gray-brown. Very neutral colors which can lend themselves to either shabby chic or modern decorating styles. Since I am more eclectic, I wanted something that was romantic but not too frou frou. I waffled over light fixtures for some time, thinking first to use this one from Lowes:

When I saw it in person, however, it just wasn't right. It was more bronze than pewter and was quite small. I liked the less formal shape, but it just wasn't putting off enough light and wouldn't look right in our 14'x14' room. So then I started looking at other, more traditional chandeliers. When I saw this one on Overstock.com I knew it was the one:

It was a little more than I was hoping to spend at $206, but it was everything I wanted- with 6 lights, real glass, and softened by the big drum shade which happens to be a current trend that I like, as well as a trendvery suitable for a bedroom. 


The light arrived on Monday so we decided to call it an easy night and just install the light. Most of the crystals were assembled so we figured about an hour, no sweat. HA!


Now, I want to say that my husband is no slouch when it comes to installing things like this. He installed every light fixture in the house and swapped out ancient fixtures in both our first house and our current one. This was not his first light-show-rodeo. And yet it took us 3 1/2 hours to install this bugger. 


Within about half an hour we had the old light down and this one ready to install. Except that as soon as we saw the small little cap for covering the ceiling hole we knew it wasn't going to cover our standard sized box. Enter the emergency trip to Home Depot to try to find something that would work.

This pic shows our solution. See the brushed pewter cap that has the fluted edges? That is what was supplied with the light. The larger circle is a brushed nickle ceiling fan cover that we found at Home Depot for under $6. It came with it's own bracket and mounting hardware, which we tried to use. It didn't work. Then we went to plan C which was to combine the two. This worked, but it required some careful consideration on how it was all going to be threaded and put together. 


The problem, I think, is that the manufacturer originally designed this to be a portable lamp. The cord had a warning tag on it for the consumer which indicated it had a polarized plug (one prong larger than the other)- as if they expected you to plug it into a wall socket. There was no prong, however. I think they tossed this cap in as an afterthought. Or maybe electrical light boxes are smaller in China than our standard? Who knows. What I want you to picture is two fairly intelligent people puzzling this whole thing together while the one with the bum shoulder tries to hold it over her head for an hour. 

(that would be me)

The light came with a long chain, but the fixture itself is so long that we only used one link. I absolutely adore how it looks in this room and I think that between this room and the laundry closet, I'm starting to feel a sense of ownership in this space. 


This, of course, is a double edged sword. The more ME I inject into this home, the less it seems that mom remains. The emotional toll is it's own post entirely, but I'm trying to think less about that so I don't have plans to elaborate about it on here any time soon. 

My lovely light from a few angles- lit up at night:

How it looks during the day:

Now my question to you is, what kind of bed?

Iron? Wood? White wood? Black? 

Give me your thoughts by posting in the comments, please!

DIY How to Remove Wallpaper Border

How do you feel about wallpaper? Seems like a polarizing question- people love it or hate it. I'm not terribly fond of it, however I have used it, especially decorative borders to easily add a design element to a room. My dislike of wallpaper originated in the first house my husband and I owned. When we bought it, we didn't realize that the garish Teenage-Mutant-Ninja-Turtle-Green paint in the previous owners' son's bedroom wasn't just painted walls. It was actually painted wallpaper. Since we were new to the whole renovation thing, we were adamant that we were going to do it "right." Which meant stripping the wallpaper down to the plaster and painting.

Well.

That was a noble idea, but we soon realized that there were more layers of wallpaper than the one that was covered by the very bold green. Five layers in one bedroom. Six layers in the other. In both rooms the paint covered the ceilings. Oye. What started as a simple paint job turned into two weeks using a hot, heavy steamer during one of the hottest summers on record in a non-air-conditioned house. Picture steaming hot water dripping down your arms and face as you hold a steamer over your head for HOURS, hundred degree heat, scraping one foot sections off at a time. Decades-old wallpaper landing in your hair, old glue sticking to your face. After stripping off all that wallpaper I vowed to myself NEVER AGAIN. I would never use wallpaper. NEVER.

It is easy to understand, then, why I loathe wallpaper. Except sometimes it really does add just the right touch. The spare bedroom that is going to be my studio's new home was previously used as a little grandmother's sewing room. When we built the house I found a vintagey sewing border and thought it was perfect. With a new purpose, it is time to remove the border. Fortunately I know the walls are sound underneath and this border isn't hiding any of the things wallpaper is often used to mask. If you've never removed wallpaper, stripping it can be easy or difficult, depending on the adhesive that was used to apply it. Most readily available modern wallpapers are vinyl coated so the first thing you want to do is try to peel off that top layer.

This can actually be sort of fun. Kind of reminds me of peeling off skin after a sunburn, trying to see how long of a piece you can pull off at once. Pull with a slow, steady tug to maximize the length and minimize your efforts.

Sometimes you'll have wallpaper which refuses to give up the top layer. In that case you'll have to score the surface with a tool called a tiger tail. It is just a plastic disc with what looks like toothy gears underneath that you swirl over the wallpaper to help the hot water and chemical release penetrate to the paper underneath.

Since I was able to peel off almost all the vinyl, I was left with just the glued paper backing. Using a sponge and warm water, I like to get the paper wet before using any chemicals. It doesn't need to be so saturated that it drips down the walls, but you do want to make sure the surface is completely damp because it will make the chemical stripper work better and faster.

Next, spray the paper with a chemical stripper. I personally like this DIF spray. This bottle has lasted me through at least 5 stripping projects and 9 years. I consider it a bargain! It goes a long way when you remove the vinyl and wet the paper first, and it is still just as fast and effective as it was when new.

Gosh, now that I'm boasting on it, I hope it is still available. The gel spray is nice because it doesn't drip down the walls. It stays where you spray it and makes the whole process much less messy than steamers or liquids.

I work in small sections, maybe 4' or 5' at a time with border, smaller if I'm doing larger pieces of wallpaper. Let the DIF set for about 10 minutes and then see if it is ready with a plastic scraper.

You can see my scraper has seen some use over the 20 odd years I've had it! I use kind of an arcing motion to scrape the paper off the walls. It should come up easily, if it doesn't, you may need to use a wet sponge to re-wet the area and spray a little more DIF. When it is going well, the paper will come off in nice sheets just like the vinyl, although you will have to use the scraper underneath almost the entire surface.

Once all the paper is off, use fresh warm water and a clean sponge to remove the remaining glue residue. If there are any nail holes, be sure to spackle and sand, then you'll be ready to primer and apply a fresh coat of paint.

Removing the wallpaper border in this room took approximately half an hour. As I said, with the right technique and tools, and newer wallpaper, this process doesn't have to be brutal. If your wallpaper is a century old, though, as it was in my first house- well, I wish you a little luck and a lot of patience. On the bright side, two weeks of steaming could land you some nice triceps!

Desk makeover

One of the items that happened to be in the garage at H2 was my husband's childhood desk. It was given to him by his aunt. I think our niece used it as well, but the desk itself was showing it's age. This is a picture of how it started:

Ok, that isn't exactly how it started. There were three wooden knobs and the top wasn't sanded. Two of the drawers had missing backs and two of the wood pieces that support the drawers had fallen off. But you get the idea, it was in rough shape. My daughter saw the potential, though, and wanted this painted green for her bedroom. On the whole, it was a pretty easy and fast refinish.

First things first, there was a spot on the top corner I had to patch with wood filler. This stuff is really stiff, but works well. This is what it looked like after it was filled but before I sanded it down-

I used a palm sander to sand the entire finish off the desk. I'm not sure of the wood, perhaps mahogany or cherry. The wood was red straight through so it wasn't simply a stain. After sanding-

Next, I rolled primer on. With all the primer options, I'll be honest. I rolled on the Zinsser primer we happened to have. It did not list bare wood on the label, but I ignored this. It took 3-4 coats of primer to completely mask all of the wood. Three for most of the desk, four for the drawer faces and top because they are the most visible surfaces.

I didn't think to take a picture of it after priming, basically picture it white. I had planned to have paint mixed to the right shade of green and roll it on, but happened to see a can of Rustoleum brand paint in nearly the exact shade of green my daughter picked out. I put about 4 coats on which required all of one and part of another 2X (twice the coverage) cans. 

Since I already had these knobs leftover from an old loft bed, we decided to reuse them. You can see two are missing, that is because two of the screws that were with the knobs were too short. 

The desk fits perfectly into her dormer. As in, an inch more and it wouldn't have worked. 

I promised I'd show you how the top came out. The bad spot was right above this heart sticker. Can't even tell now, can you? That wood filler has probably saved us $500 in doors that my husband has been able to salvage instead of replace. The door jambs in nearly every interior door have been clawed to bits by cats. Like the surface of the desk, however, once they have been filled, sanded, primed and painted, you would never know.

You might be able to see that I distressed the edges slightly with a sander. This brings up a faint white line from the primer and gives this simple piece a little dimension and enhances the fact that it is a vintage desk. I put several coats of Minwax finishing wax over the top surface to give it some protection. I didn't bother with the sides because as you can tell, noting can really touch them in this location.


Give me your thoughts! Makeover success?